Abu Dhabi Do

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7 Days in Abu Dhabi

If you’re looking for some winter sun from the shorter end of the long-haul spectrum, then Abu Dhabi is the ideal destination. Attractive piazzas and narrowed cobbled streets it isn’t but that doesn’t mean it is without appeal or culture. It is true that opulence is on display everywhere you look, with an abundance of five star hotels and every other car being a Porsche. Abu Dhabi may be traditionally considered as a stopover location but I found plenty to do for a week with a high-end stay at a reasonable price.

Room with a view

We arrived at the Jumeirah At Etihad Towers, where five towers create an impressive sculptural form reflecting the beachside setting in its glass exterior. Our room had an enviable view of the coastline and I very much enjoyed pressing the bedside button to open the blackout curtains in the morning, revealing this scene. The freestanding bath had an equally pleasing view, this being of the Emirates Palace and the surrounding Persian Gulf. I couldn’t resist choosing a bath over a shower most days.

One evening there was a gecko in the room, which was somewhat of a shock, especially on the 57^th floor. The staff retrieved it and by way of apology gave us a lovely card, bottle of wine and a bowl of fruit. I admit to not knowing some of the fruit but since found out they were snake fruit and cashew fruit.

Observation Deck at 300m

The breakfast buffet had the most choice I think I have ever encountered and included some Arabian options. Hunger more than satisfied, we headed to the pool. Well actually there are three pools and a private beach. Towels were placed on whichever sunbed we chose and we were handed free ice lollies. There was even a button to press if we wanted to purchase any drinks or snacks. Just before sunset we headed up to the Observation Deck for an even higher and panoramic view of the coastline at 300 metres. This is free to hotel guests; otherwise it is 95AED with a redeemable voucher against refreshments.

Things to do

• If you only have time to see one thing make sure it is The Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque. The majestic white domes and columns against the bright blue sky, and the marble with accents of gold and floral designs are spectacular. It is the largest mosque in the country and was the brainchild of the late president, Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan. The mosque has the world’s largest handwoven carpet at 60,546 square metres, and its main prayer hall is home to one of the world’s largest chandeliers at 15 metres long. This experience would be worth paying for and yet it is free entry so there is little excuse to miss it.

• The Emirates Palace is one of the most luxurious hotels in the world and is definitely worth a visit. We were able to walk in and look around the public areas without being turned away but we had heard that we would need a restaurant reservation to enter, so my advice is to try like we did and see what happens. Perusing the café menu I noticed a cappuccino with 24 carat gold for 50AED. I suppose if you want to experience such a luxurious coffee then it may as well be in of the most expensive hotels. The movie Sex and the City 2 was allegedly set at this hotel but it was actually filmed in Morocco and the USA due to cost constraints.

• The Louvre, newly opened in November 2017 is on Saadiyat Island. Considering this has only just opened it has thousands of artefacts and artworks, which begin in ancient times and move right through to art of the present day. I found it a little cool walking around so I would suggest bringing a layer to put on if you need it.

The structural design of the building was the highlight for me, and you can fully immerse yourself in the patterned dome spanning 180m at the end when you come out on to the terrace. The structure, inspired by Arab architecture, was created by Jean Nouvel. He has designed a dome that filters the sunlight through it and offers varying views of the waterfront.  Save some energy though, as there is another exhibition to view after this, which tells the history of the Louvre in Paris and its art. There is also a small museum for children.

• The Corniche is a four mile promenade, where you can walk or cycle (cycle hire shops along the Corniche) with a free entry beach alongside, places to eat and ice-cream shops.
• The Yas Marina Circuit is a great attraction if you fancy yourself a Formula One driver. For a different experience, every Tuesday evening is an opportunity to walk or cycle the track for free; you just need to register online beforehand. I would definitely suggest getting a taxi or driving there (25 minute drive from the centre) as it took hours on the public bus.
• There is no shortage of malls in Abu Dhabi with close to 20 to choose from. The Marina Mall, situated at the Breakwater has five floors of shops and restaurants, including high street, designer and Arabic brands.

Sit down paddle for a while

• There are water sports available on the promenade at the Eastern Mangroves and we took a two hour guided stand-up paddle board trip with Hydromarine Sports for 160AED each. Having a guide was a good decision as getting lost in the mangroves was a possibility.

Eastern Mangroves Hotel Impressions Bar

Afterwards you may like to take some refreshment at the pool bar of the Eastern Mangroves hotel. There is also a roof terrace bar but it was only open after it was no longer in the sun so this may be better in February or March when the sun sets later and is warmer in the evening.

Where to eat

• Cho Gao at Marina Walk within the Intercontinental Hotel: Thai restaurant with stylish interior, great food and service. We even got a free glass of prosecco. After dinner we chose mocktails (many of the mocktails in UAE are more impressive than the cocktails, likely because Muslims don’t drink alcohol of course).
• Byblos Sur Mer is also at the Marina and is a Lebanese restaurant. We sat outside and enjoyed a selection of meze but we noticed something extra we hadn’t ordered. It turned out they had given us one of their signature dishes complimentary and this was our favourite in the end, the mwaradeh. This is open kebbeh with minced meat, cherries and molasses encased in a light pastry. (Kebbeh is made of bulgur, minced onions, and finely ground lean beef, lamb, goat, or camel meat with spices).

Cho Gao & Byblos are good value too.

One day we were in a café and sat next to two Muslim women who had coffee in a traditional Arabic pot. They must have seen us admiring it because one of them invited us to try some Arabic coffee. We assumed they meant us to try some of theirs but they ordered us our own and with date pudding, which was served with a butterscotch sauce, yoghurt ice cream and caramelised pecan nuts. We tried to refuse but they insisted and then they left having paid for us. We were left wondering if this was an Arabic culture thing, a Blue Monday thing (it was 15th January), or a two nice ladies thing. Arabic coffee is not served with milk but has cardamom in it, which was good to try but I wouldn’t choose it. The date pudding, on the other hand, was delicious.

Some extra tips

Weather

We went in January, this is a cooler time of year but for Brits like me it is pleasantly warm at 22 or 23 degrees in the daytime and not too much cooler at night. Any time beyond March and it begins to really heat up. Summer months would be good to avoid.

Getting around

There are public buses, but you may need to go to the main bus station first for a card which you can top up as needed.  I would only recommend taking the bus for journeys without changes otherwise it could take a long time to get to your destination and make the cheap cost insignificant. If you decide to take the bus, be sure to download the Darb app to plan your route. It may be best to take a day or two on the Big Red Bus Tour and then use taxis the rest of the time. Taxis are not expensive or you could hire a car to allow more flexibility.

Opening times

In the UAE the weekend is Friday and Saturday. Friday is a day of worship for many so keep an eye on opening times for attractions and malls as they may not open until mid-afternoon.

The Louvre is closed on Mondays.

What to wear

It is probably best to ensure your outfit isn’t tight-fitting, is at least knee length and that it covers your shoulders. Having a light jacket or pashmina would be wise to bring anyway as sometimes malls and restaurants can feel cool from the air conditioning.  Swim and beachwear is of course fine at the pool or beach but just make sure you cover up when you leave these areas.

In mosques your head, shoulders and legs need to be covered but at The Grand Mosque they can provide you with an abaya, a loose and lightweight cloak. I recommend bringing socks though as you need to remove your shoes or sandals before going in and the marble floor may feel a touch cold.

Things I didn’t have time to try

• Brunch: this is not as I know it in the UK but begins at lunch time and can last right through until dinner. This occurs on Fridays which is the first day of the weekend and for many a rest day if not praying. It can be time for family to get together and for drinking and eating. Top picks for brunch in Abu Dhabi
• The public beach at Saadiyat Island we have been told is beautiful with white sand. Entry is 25AED and just as good as going to the Beach Club here for a higher cost.
• The Heritage Village is situated on the Breakwater near the Marina Mall, which is an opportunity to explore Abu Dhabi and UAE history with demonstrations of weaving, metal work, pottery and crafts. There is also a museum. Opening Hours are supposed to be 9am-4pm except Friday 3.30pm-9pm. However we were told it wasn’t open on Friday so I would check.
• A drink at the Hyatt Capital Gate, which has an 18 degree lean. 
• Qasr Al Hosn Fort is currently closed or difficult to access due to renovations, usually open daily 4-11pm and includes a free exhibition telling the history of Abu Dhabi and its fort.
• For thrill seekers Ferrari World is a theme park near the Yas Marina Formula One Circuit. Open daily from 11am.