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The Real Alcazar of Seville in Spain will be found at the top of most recommended things to do for the city, and there is a reason for that. The Royal Palace’s history and architecture are thoroughly captivating. It was built in the 10th century and its Moorish design is intricate and spellbinding.  The function was a Moorish fortress and in the 14th century it became a residence for the Spanish monarchy. This included King Pedro, sometimes known as Peter the Cruel or Peter the Just, depending on the perspective of his enemies or friends. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, retaining its Mudejar architecture. This is a blend of Islamic and European architectural styles. 

What is the best time to visit the Alcazar of Seville?

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I visited in March when the weather was mostly pleasant. The summer months reach sweltering temperatures and so spring, autumn, or even the winter, are likely to be your best bet. If it is particularly hot, then avoid queuing in the heat by booking ahead here . This is probably a good idea regardless. The least busy times are usually earlier in the morning or late afternoon but to fully experience the Alcazar, you are likely to be there at least some of the busiest time. I advise that even if you have explored the inside of the palace, to go back an hour or so before closing to see it with much reduced crowds. This will allow you to really admire the architecture and take in all of the beautiful designs. 

Here are the things that I believe make the Real Alcazar so special and I recommend you spend a while absorbing yourself in them when you visit. This is an illustrated guide with some of my artistic interpretations.

 

Los Banos de Dona Maria de Padilla, Alcazar of Seville

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Los Banos de Dona Maria de Padilla, Watercolour pencil, Laura Ockenden

For all the artistry and beauty in the Moorish design of the Alcazar, these baths could be described as dingy and eerie. In spite of this, there is something that lures you into this space that used to serve as a cool recreational area away from the stifling summer heat. It was used by Dona Maria de Padilla, the mistress of King Pedro.

The light and dark, the muted colours with more vibrant shades, along with the stillness and reflections, provide an opportunity to stop and experience the strange and spiritual qualities here.

 

The gardens and the peacocks in the Real Alcazar of Seville 

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Peacocks in watercolour, Laura Ockenden

These colourful creatures have the run of the place, it seems, and here I found two of them surveying all that lay before them over this wall. I can imagine they were a conversation about it. The confidence of these birds is apparent as they strut about the gardens in full knowledge of their power to attract with their mesmerising plumage. 

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Neptune Fountain

 

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The Mercury Pond filled with carp, hopeful to be fed by passers-by . The name of the pond is due to a statue of the God, Mercury, at the centre, who represents industry and commerce.

 

The orange trees in the Alcazar Gardens

The famous Sevillian orange trees had to feature here. I was glad to see baskets of oranges where they had fallen, enabling visitors to take some. 

The Hall of Ambassadors, Real Alcazar of Seville

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Hall of Ambassadors designs, Watercolour, Laura Ockenden

Throughout the interior of the Alcazar are mesmeric Moorish designs and none more so than in the Hall of Ambassadors. Every inch is covered with rich patterned plasterwork and ceramic tiles.  During the reign of the King, this was the most important room of the palace. It was used to receive the most notable visitors, which included the celebration of the marriage of Charles V to Isabella of Portugal. Perhaps the most impressive sight is when you look up at the huge golden dome. Its magical stars and mirrored patterns draw you in and symbolise the heavens above. 

Here are some other areas not to miss at the Alcazar :

The Dolls Courtyard is covered in plasterwork from the Alhambra in Granada. Its name comes from the tiny dolls’ faces in the architecture, which I would have missed had it not been pointed out to me.

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Courtyard of the Maidens with its long reflective pool

 

For a visual walk through of the Alcazar, I recommend this 360 tour.  

How much time to spend at the Real Alcazar of Seville

You will see some articles recommending six hours to visit and I thought that surely would be too much. As it turned out we were there for about four and a half hours. I could have spent another half an hour or more so I suggest you allow somewhere between four and six hours.

Real Alcazar opening times and prices can be found here.  At the time of writing general admission is EUR 13.50 and it is open 9.30am-5pm in winter, or until 7pm in spring-autumn. There is free entry possible for the last hour on Mondays. However, it is EUR 1 to book online and really you need to book a few weeks in advance, as there are only a certain amount of these tickets available. 

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Have you visited the Alcazar of Seville and what did you like about it?

Please also let me know if you liked my illustrations rather than simply photographs.

If you enjoyed this post and appreciate architecture and beautiful settings, check out my post about Trento in Italy.