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Charleston was voted No.1 city in the world by the Travel & Leisure World’s Best Awards 2016, for the fourth consecutive year, so I went to see if it lived up to this grand accolade.
Originally named Charles Town after King Charles II, and nicknamed “Chuck”town, I spent four glorious days in Charleston. Here are 10 reasons to visit:
1. Warmth
This Deep South destination in South Carolina enjoys warm weather year-round but I would have to recommend spring as the ideal time to visit. I visited in early March when flowers are already in full bloom and the weather is pleasantly warm without the stifling heat of summer. You will also avoid the majority of the mosquitoes, and if you are prone to getting bitten like me, this will seal the deal.
The locals are also very friendly, and this combined with the air of refinement to the city offers the perfect place to just wander…
2. Wander
Charleston is a very walkable city, and where possible I like to do this as it is the best way to get a sense of a place. Wandering here means around every corner is another handsome garden or inviting doorway, along with glowing lanterns on every house and a comforting waft of citronella everywhere you go.
If you do fancy resting your feet for a while though, there is the CARTA DASH trolley bus , which provides three free routes within the city.
Experience yet more southern charm by taking a ride in a horse-drawn carriage, and an inspiring history lesson as you go.
3. King Street
The best of downtown Charleston has to be King Street, home to some of the city’s top bars, restaurants and boutiques. For those who have seen the film ‘The Notebook’, stop at No. 446. This is the American Theater that features as the cinema where Noah takes Allie on their first date. Just a short walk further up the street brings you to the traffic lights and crossing where Noah and Allie lay down in the middle of the road. I didn’t try it.
4. The architecture
It is hard to find a less than attractive corner in Charleston, and with its historic houses and antebellum mansions at every turn, it is easy to see why. Gadsden House on East Bay Street is hardly on the tourist trail but we sought it out as we have friends who used to live there. Built by war hero, Christopher Gadsden, it is a great example of a grand Federal style manor from the late 18th century. With its classic balcony veranda and Phillp Simmon ‘snake gates’, it is one of the top 10 historic properties in Charleston, as well as an elegant wedding and corporate venue.
Rainbow Row is a unique row of pastel coloured buildings on East Bay Street. This used to be the centre of the city’s commerce district but is now home to residents.
These are not the only pastel coloured buildings in the city, and one such building is a pink house at 76 Church St. It is here that DuBose Heyward, the author of “Porgy”, lived from 1919 to 1924. “Porgy” was to become the inspiration for the Gershwin opera “Porgy and Bess”.
Dock Street Theatre on Church Street, originally built in 1736, is the oldest in the USA. The intricate wrought iron balcony sets it apart from the surrounding architecture, and that is some feat.
5. Secret roads and doorways
Now Charleston isn’t exactly within the realm of Harry Potter but it does have some narrow cobbled streets. These streets could be easily missed but once found will make you feel as if you are entering somewhere magical. Longitude Lane is one such street; it takes you behind houses where you can imagine their rear doorways lead to a secret garden.
6. Food
The Low Country Bistro on South Market Street is a great example of Creole cuisine with its Jambalaya, gumbo, crab cake and more. I opted for the delicious Carolina Crabcake Melt, though I warn you it was deceptively filling, so much so that I had no dinner that evening and that is a very rare occurrence. I recommend sitting out on the balcony for your meal and watch the horse-drawn carriages go by.
167 Raw on East Bay Street is an intimate yet casual restaurant offering some of the best seafood in Charleston. They don’t take reservations so we struck lucky walking in and getting a seat that peered into the kitchen. This may not sound ideal but seeing the chefs at work and enjoying what they do gave a lively and positive addition to the experience. I chose the Shrimp Po Boy (a traditional Southern sandwich), followed by Key lime pie.
7. Drinks
5church on Market Street is a restaurant and bar that is definitely worth a stop. We went for pre-dinner cocktails and enjoyed both the drinks and the former church surroundings. We were told that the ceiling art, including the quote “There is only we”, was the work of artist Jon Norris and was based on Sun Tzu’s strategic military manuscript ‘The Art of War’. Apparently some of these inspiring words also apply to restaurants.
Prohibition is a bar and restaurant with no secret door or code to work out but it offers a great atmosphere with live music every night and free dance lessons on many of them. On the night we were there it was swing dancing and I thought I’d get in the spirit with a Lindy Hop cocktail; Chattanooga Reserve Whiskey, strawberry, lemon, orgeat, and cinnamon.
Every march the Charleston Wine & Food Festival takes place on Marion Square as well as other venues in the city. I warn you the emphasis seems slightly more on the wine than the food but this seemed to produce merry rather than raucous behaviour.
8. Arthur Ravenel JR. Bridge
This Arthur Ravenel connects downtown Charleston with Mount Pleasant over the Cooper River, and is very photogenic with its sculptural-like quality. I recommend driving or cycling over it to get the best perspective of this impressive bridge.
9. Sunset at The Battery
Start at Waterfront Park where you will find a giant pineapple fountain, wooden swings and a riverfront esplanade, with the chance of seeing dolphins in distance.
Further along you will come to the White Point Gardens in which several Civil War relics and memorials commemorate the city’s role in the battle. The crowning glory has to be the dramatic sunsets.
10. Isle of Palms
This barrier island is only 25 minutes from Charleston and well worth the trip. We went to the Front Beach Fest where we listened to the hugely entertaining South Carolina Soul Band. Locals got up and started Shag dancing to this music, but note that this does not have the same meaning in the USA as the UK, it is just a form of swing dance.
After a walk along the beach looking out onto the Atlantic Ocean we headed to Banana Cabana for ‘Loud Puppies’, which I highly recommend. These are like hush puppies (a small deep-fried ball of cornmeal batter) but with the addition of jalapeños.
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Watch out for my next blog on plantations near Charleston.
Flights
London to Charleston return from £342, with Skyscanner
Manchester to Charleston return from £393 with Skyscanner
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